Upon arriving in Goa it doesn’t take long to realise that this small western state of India with the Arabian Sea lapping at its shores has it all; spectacular rural landscapes, magnificent beaches, forests, waterfalls and an abundance of wildlife ranging from birds to buffaloes, snakes to monkeys as well as turtles, leopards, deer, wild boars, mongooses and so much more.
Goa is synonymous with sunsets, beach shacks and palm trees. People from all over the globe flock to this small state on the west coast of India to soak up the sun, take in the fresh sea air and partake in the laid-back or “susegad” lifestyle, for a weekend, a week or even a few months when their home country may be covered in snow. Beaches are lined with colourful and inviting beach shacks that serve popular dishes such as garlic butter squid, rawa fried prawns, grilled fish, fresh lime sodas and cheap beer, wine and spirits. There are accommodation options catering to all budgets ranging from high-end luxury villas in gated resorts to backpacker hostels and budget-friendly “glamping” options that lead directly to the sand.
The Goan coastline is bursting with beaches that fit every taste. Whether travelling north or south, visitors can find golden beaches that are either busy and crowded or less visited and more secluded. Some are flanked only by casuarina trees and coconut palms whereas others are fringed by busy shacks, bars, hostels and resorts. Some spots are perfect for the young partygoers who have trance music and raves on their minds, whereas other locations are ideal for those looking for a quiet getaway with a partner or a group of friends. Some beaches are popular with locals, as the bus stop may be close at hand, whereas others need a trekking adventure or a boat trip to be able to visit and some areas attract a foreign crowd and the language of the roadside advertisements and food shack menus can attest to the different nationalities who regularly visit; Russians, Israelis, English, Italians and so many more.
Although the beachside shacks often seem to have a similar fare, a short walk inland from the sandy shores can often lead visitors towards the hidden gems that make Goa famous for great food options; Italian, Chinese, Asian, Mediterranean, Fusion, Indian, Vegan, Middle Eastern; there is an option for every palate. But international fare aside, Goa has its own specialities, Cafreal, Vindaloo, Balchao and Xacuti which are must-tastes for any foodies worth their salt.
For most tourists heading to Goa, a beach experience is what they are looking for and venturing further than a hundred metres or so from the sand is only required when arriving or departing. The majority of time is spent on or around the beach of their choice; swimming, soaking up the sun, enjoying a foot massage, dozing on a sunbed under a brightly coloured umbrella, having a beer or a cocktail and snoozing in the afternoon breeze. Those who need more activities will parasail, kayak or venture out to spot dolphins on the many boat trips that are promoted by the eager touts on the beach.
At sunset, when the sun’s rays are less intense, the tables and chairs start to appear in readiness for the evening diners. The beaches fill with tourists trying to capture the perfect sunset pic or that “one-of-a-kind” selfie with the shimmering waves as a backdrop. Refreshments are purchased, visitors watch as the sun drops below the horizon and waitstaff light table candles that flicker along the beaches for as far as the eye can see. Most shacks have music, some live and others playing over speakers of all shapes and sizes. The variety of tunes is endless; Hindi, Bollywood, Goan, English, Electronic, New Age, Easy Listening, Rock, and Trance. A short walk along any popular Goan beach will enable a visitor to find a venue that will suit their musical taste and particular mood.
Within a few days, however, the Goan beach holiday, for most tourists, will draw to a close and they will return home with an “I love Goa” T-shirt and happy memories of their vacation by the sea. They will have seen sunsets, beach shacks and palm trees and enjoyed all that they came for – but this holiday scenario is just a slice of what this tiny state has to offer.
Once you move past the golden sands, shimmering waves and swaying palms, Goa is a fascinating mix of the old and the new, where historical landmarks, architecture and age-old traditions are found around every corner.
Goa is old – seriously old! I have been told that rock art found in South Goa suggests that human life has existed in the area for thousands of years and as time progressed it has been heavily influenced by the rulings of Emperors, Monarchs and Sultans and eventually, in the 1500s, it was the Portuguese who held control until the 1960s.
Over the years, Goan life has been affected by the teachings and traditions found in Buddhism, Hinduism, Jainism and Christianity and there are remnants of the past dotted everywhere in the form of ancient temples and forts to historical churches, chapels and edifices. There are grand mansions, homes and villas dotted across the state and Goa’s diverse heritage permeates every aspect of everyday life; its beliefs, customs, food, architecture and traditions.
Houses influenced by Christian values can be seen with wide verandas and grand windows seeking views of the world outside, whereas those homes following more conservative Hindu values may have their rooms opening up to a central courtyard thus keeping their womenfolk away from prying eyes. Although very staunch in their more recent Catholic beliefs and customs, some Goan villages still follow more ancient beliefs such as tying sandals to tree trunks in an attempt to “shame” the tree into bearing more fruit!
In a country where less than 3% of the population follows Christianity, a Goan Christmas is especially amazing. Houses become ablaze with Christmas lights and strings of stars, nativity scenes (cribs) pop up around neighbourhoods and families travel great distances to see dioramas of the birth of Jesus resplendent with the palaces of the three wise men. Festive carols fill the air, families gather and celebrate with friends and neighbours and gifts are exchanged, much to the excitement of the young and old alike.
Goans speak Konkani, Hindi and English and are calm, ever-polite and welcoming in nature. They are conservative in their outlook, closely connected to family and friends and concentrate on living happily rather than chasing the almighty dollar at all costs. It might be, for this reason, that time seems to slow down when visiting. A weekend will feel like a week, seven days will feel like thirty and a stay that lasts longer might change your attitude towards keeping time altogether.
If you head to Goa with the view that everything is perfect though, then you could be mistaken; Wifi can be sketchy, electricity can come and go, roads can be too narrow, parking is difficult to find, monsoon rains are torrential, speed bumps can appear when least expected and getting a maintenance task completed (or even started) can take far longer than one would ever expect.
But if you come to Goa to immerse yourself in all of what this fantastic coastal state of India has to offer then you will leave with your spirits rejuvenated, your energy recharged and quite possibly with a new perspective on life that you might not have expected to find.
Everyone should find themselves in Goa at least once but not to just soak up the sun and get sand between their toes. In addition to beach-hopping visitors should rent a scooter, go dolphin spotting, try parasailing, keep an eye out for turtle nests, drift in the early morning sky in a hot air balloon, enjoy sipping on tender coconuts picked freshly from a tree, pray for support at miraculous crosses, immerse themselves in the rich history of the mansions at Chandor, enjoy the brightly coloured houses that are the pride of their owners, eat chicken or beef cutlet pav from one of the many roadside food trucks and try to keep count of the many shades of green that can be found in the Goan landscape!
Goa truly is so much more than sunsets, beach shacks and palm trees!
My Goan Food Highlights
Most of these restaurants are still serving customers however others have become just wonderful memories:
- Ourem88 at Palolem (truly one of the best meals I have ever had!)
- The ambience as the sun goes down at Tree Top Tava at Agonda.
- Best Asian and fantastic service.at Wok & Roll at Candolim. If in the area, make sure you check them out!
- Sunday roast at Inda Desa at Palolem.
- Cow Corner at Patnum.
- The Lobster Shack at the Taj Exotica at Benaulim.
- Excellent Goan fare at Cavatina by Avinash Martins at Benaulim.
- Seafood at Martin’s Corner at Betalbatim
- Great ambience and live music at Thalassa Greek Restaurant at Siolim
- Live music and great Friday and Saturday nights at Southern Deck at Benaulim
- Great Asian food, especially crunchy pork and fresh sushi at The Red Ginger at Colva
- Delicious Saturday prawn thali at the Little Banana at Benaulim
- Bespoke gin cocktails in a relaxed setting at Verandahs at Ashven
- Great french food and a relaxed atmosphere at Le Plage Ashven
- An all-time favourite for many is Bomras at Anjuna
- Jardin D”Ulysse at Morjim has just what is needed to satiate the taste buds
- A wonderfully vegan way to start the day at the Garden of Dreams at Arambol
- Great tuna and so much more at Cafe Nu ay Mnndrem
- Wonderful wood-fired pizza and great live music at Reggae Haven at Cavelossium
- Additionally any Goan speciality such as beef molho, pork vindaloo, xacuti, BBQ prawns, grilled chonok, Goan sausage-stuffed squid, garlic butter prawns!
My Goan Beach Highlights:
North Goa
- Anjuna: This beach feels like its time has passed and is in need of a revamp. It’s very touristy for all the wrong reasons.
- Calangute: Entry to this beach via a street mall, popular with local tourists, With Baga Beach, is one of the most commercial beaches. A wide range of water sports is available.
- Morjim: A nice surfing beach
- Vagator: You will find this beach at the bottom of a steep cliff. It is scenic but has few food options. Popular with local tourists
- Ozran / Small Vagator: This beach is the site of the Sunburn festival and has lots of shacks and beach chairs. Very popular rocky beach with a young crowd and a trance party vibe
- Arambol: Long wide beach with plenty of shacks. It has a Goan party vibe with lots of alternative therapies on offer. By day it is a pleasant place but by night the shacks seem to compete to be the place with the loudest music!
- Mandrem: Next to Arambol, this is a wide beach popular with foreign tourists.
- Sweet Water Lake and Kalacha: To get to this beach it is a walk from Arambol along the beach path is lined with restaurants and trinket sellers. A pretty beach with only a couple of shacks and the area has an alternative “hippy” vibe.
- Kerim / Keri / Querim: A very pretty, isolated beach on the border of Goa and Maharashtra. Only a few shacks available for food and refreshments
- Miramar: A long wide beach with no shacks and situated in an urban area. Limited restaurant options and popular with the local crowd
- Candolim: Lots of food and entertainment options both on the beach as well as along the nearby streets. No shacks to stay on the beach itself but plenty of options close by.
South Goa
- Cavelossium: A large range of shacks on a wide clean beach.
- Bogmalo: Many established shacks, close to the airport, with a very local crowd.
- Baina: A long beach that, at some stage was slated for redevelopment, however, it is next to a slum and a freeway construction and so is a long way from being a spot to put on a tourist itinerary.
- Hollant: A quiet, pretty, rocky little beach with picnic spots, however, these are not well kept. Popular with local families for picnics
- Betul: A great fishing spot and an area for a picnic next to a river. It is not a swimming area and there are no food options. Go in the evening as shade is limited.
- Benaulim: Parking is easy and a great variety of established shacks exist. A nice beach to hang out at, both during the day and at night.
- Betalbatim: It is a scenic beach but seems too “popular” for a south Goa beach. Many beach activities are on offer.
- Majorda: Situated on a nice stretch of beach it just seemed messy, busy and disorganised. Unlike the other beaches where sunbeds at neatly lined in rows, at this beach they seemed to be all over the place as if competing for space.
- Lovers: A pleasant stretch for a beach walk with forest cover and no shacks
- Sunset: Sandwiched between Betalbatim and Lovers Beach there seems to be no real reason to call it a separate beach.
- Colva: Have a Kentucky breakfast! This beach is popular with local tourists and day-trippers. There is a fishing village at one end that has a few shacks for a nightcap
- Zalor: This beach is definitely underrated as it is a peaceful beach with soft sand and a great shack. One of my favourite beaches!
South-South Goa
- Patnem: A small beach, nestled between two cliffs, that is quiet and laid back. There are limited food options, but it is a quaint place to stay.
- Rajbag: It is on the other side of Patnem and is a fishing village in an inlet. No services or shacks.
- Palolem: A long semicircle-shaped beach with a variety of shacks, accommodation options, water sports and dolphin spotting trips. A very popular beach both during the day and at night.
- Agonda: A long, isolated, beach next to Palolem with lots of shacks and places to stay and dolphin spotting trips available. One of my personal favourite beaches for relaxing and chilling out.
- Butterfly: A small beach only accessible by a 3 km walk or a boat ride
- Hunaman/Honeymoon: A visit is by boat and is a nice place for a BYO picnic
- Turtle/Galgibagh: Olive Ridley turtle nesting site, limited food options but wonderful beach
- Cola: Pretty locality with a lagoon, and beachside huts however it is a rough road to get there
- Talpona: A long stretch of beach that is a turtle nesting site and had no shacks
Just Over The Border
- Om (Gokarna): A pretty tree-lined beach, shaped like the Om symbol, quite picturesque
- Kudle (Gokarna): An offbeat Palolim
Email: barry@dremac.co